Old Sunset orange 60Ah was recently replaced with Fluid Black 120Ah S version and of course audio upgrade was needed.
You can check old build -> https://www.audiokit.fi/kirjoitus/bmw-i3-harman-kardon-audio-upgrade
Sound system of that was pretty good and first idea was just to swap everything to new one. But after rethinking this is opportunity test at least some new products that has come to the markets recently. Match UP 7BMW is still a solid amp and now replaced with Match UP 8BMW. Except 8DSP version + 1.7HiFi upgrade kit is cheaper and comes with all universal cables that help if you install it to other car or sell it. Overall results when it comes how systems sounds is basically same with UP7/8 so there was no need to replace that and also AI-Sonic S2-A500.1 is really good monoamp so that stays also.
So here are components used in this build (links to finnish product pages):
Match UP8 HiFi 676/674 amp upgrade kit (with URC.3 remote)
AI-Sonic S2-A500.1 mono amp (with bass level knob)
Alpine R2-S69C 6x9" component speakers
Helix Ci3 M100FM-S3 - 3Ohm (with CFMK100 BMW.2 adapters)
DD Audio LE-DF-SL610 subwoofer
+ power cables, Most & Toslink cables, fusebox etc. install accessories
Front speakers
So in this upgrade just like in previous one only tweeters, door mids and kickwoofers are replaced and center + rear speakers stays stock. That's because i3 HK stock speakers are pretty ok except woofers are bad and tweeters sound a little bit harsh. I did try first with stock door mids and sound was almost ok with DSP tuning, but vocals weren't so clear that I hoped so search for 4" midrange begun and new Helix i3 was selected for testing with good success. Vocals came more alive and there was better details in all areas so a really good choice. Center is fine as stock because it doesn't need to stick out that much, just so that it adds some overall sound, rises soundstage upper but doesn't mess FL+FR sound. That is possible with DSP's Real Center algorithm.
Many may wonder why not just put 4" component set made for BMW and add some 6x9" kickwoofers. Well that was the case in previous i3 but this time something different. Audison AP 690 aren't perfect fit and needs some dremeling so this time we went for Alpine R2 6x9" component set that is almost plug&play both woofers and tweeters meaning no dremeling is needed but seals and connectors need to be made. Also quality is top notch with HI-RES tweeters going all the way up to 40kHz.
Also when tweeters have their own crossovers like in Alpine's install is easy. Tweeters are in same channels as door speakers and wires Y-branch is somewhere hidden most likely near doors connector. So it would be hard to use crossover that has outputs for both mid and tweeter and that goes also to many BMW specific speakers like Match, Ground Zero, Phoenix Gold and ESX Audio. Of course mids output from crossover can be ignored and just use it for tweeter. But in this case Alpine's crossovers are just for tweeter so OE wire to input and output to tweeter. Kickwoofers in i3 plays from own channels so doesn't need any crossovers and filters can be adjusted from Match DSP.
Alpine R2-S69 component set.
First tweeter install.
Alpine's tweeter diameter is perfect for i3 stock locations but there are no collars that snap in, so some adhesive is needed to keep them in place. Non hardening CTK butyl strip is perfect for that and is like sticky plasticine, but hot glue or any elastic glue is good enough. There are three level settings for tweeters in crossovers: -3dB / 0 / +3dB. First was +3dB but it was too much even with DSP tuning so changed to 0dB and way much smoother highs and better match for door mids.
HI-RES magnesium tweeter can be seen behind grille just like stock.
Next project was to install Alpine woofers.
As mentioned before fit was 100% perfect to stock adapters. Just needed some butyl strip for sealant and cutting stock connectors and making new ones. Short wires were soldered to woofers and some Abiko bullet connectors.
Stock woofer out. Fuse box needs to be "dropped" down from right side and overall access all the screws is little tricky. "Sound guides" need to come out first and then adapters that attach woofers to CF body.
Alpine woofers fit perfectly to stock adapters.
Woofers installed.
Stock "sound guides" were left out as didn't fit well because Alpine woofers have taller collar. Also there is no need of those from sound point of "view" as bass doesn't need guidance. Some CTK butyl strip was also added around adapters as there was some air noise coming from few places and also from chassis carbon fiber joint just below woofers under the carpet. So always test the sound with loud bass music before putting trims back. Most likely you won't hear little leaks to drivers seat but all little things will affect to final sound.
NOTE: There is something strange with i3 HK woofer wires. Normally BMW has brown stripe which is negative and i3 has brown in other and red in other both sides so logically +/-. In this install however phases of left and right woofers were crossed when connected and tested with music and I recall same issues was also with old i3. So ALWAYS test test before putting all the trims back if bass sounds ok. If left / right woofers are in wrong phase compared to each other bass sounds hard like knocking. With DSP phase can be switched to each speaker but better to have both same physically if you sell the car and put back stock amp.
And finally Helix Ci3 M100FM-S3 4" mids.
Stock ones were almost ok but some "muddines" in sound so better go for better when you're into it. Maybe 3ohm and good sensitivity makes these better pair for Alpine tweeters but of course overall better speakers than stock. These are strange speakers as xmax is just +- 2mm but power handling impressive 80Wrms/120Wmax. Well all doubts gone after installed and playing first notes. These can handle high volumes with no distortion or bottoming when 24dB/Oct@125Hz Butterworth filter is used.
Fabric behind grille was removed just in case (lower pics).
Amps and sub
This was straightforward swap as all power and RCA cables were done to ex i3. Of course URC.3 and AI-Sonic bass-knob needed to attach and cables routed but quite quick job.
Sub in previous car was Emphaser EBR-M8DX and a really good one. Smooth low bass that you can really feel and can handle AI-Sonic's 600Wrms power. One of the best sounding 8" that I've come across but quite big box and that is one of the main reason to big sound, but meaning less cargo space for small trunk. Also hard to get here in Finland and takes several weeks to order so why not test something new and smaller.
DD Audio just released new LE-DF-SL enclosed subs that are compact, have small footprint and can handle power at least 600Wrms but probably much more. So in went DD Audio LE-DF-SL610 and most likely stays.
Compared to bigger Emphaser ported enclosure SPL level of DD Audio is about the same and even better kick as it is sealed small enclosure. Maybe not so warm and sensitive so needs a little bit more power given from bass knob but difference is small. And like all subs this needs time to break in to reach full potential maybe 30hrs in high volume. So it will most likely sound even better...
Last but most important is DSP tuning.
Stereo image and frequency response was adjusted using microphone set that integrates to amps PC-Tool software. Measurements and adjustments were done several times between speaker swaps trying to find the perfect sound. Filters and bass tuning is always best done using ears. There is always phase shift if going to steeper filters like 12->24dB for kickwoofers and then you need most likely to swap subs phase 0->180 degrees. There is general consensus that Linkwitz-Riley filter affects least to phase shift and I've noticed that with new PC-Tool software version that is pre-set. I have tried using that many many times but it just lacks dynamics in crossover points and everything sounds just "dry". Butterworth is little bit steeper filter and sounds a lot better to my ears so LO-PASS 12dB/Oct@150Hz Butterworth is good for kickwoofers without hi-pass and for sub 12dB@80Hz BW. For 4" mids (front, center, rear) sharper HI-PASS 24dB/Oct@125Hz BW works well.
So when you have DSP amplifier sound tuning makes a huge difference and of course better results with better speakers. Even from stock speakers you can get much more with more power and professional tuning, but usually at least subwoofer is needed. And for final tune always use your ears as pink noise measurement with mic doesn't always reflect how speakers reflect to real music.
Rest is just pictures...
Match DSP amp installed.
12V taken from DC-DC converter and AI-Sonic monoamp in place.
Match URC.3 and AI-Sonic bass level knob installed. Compared to old i3 these newer models have QI charger in armrest.
DSP tuning. Not the final results just work in progress pics.
Emphaser EBR-M8DX subwoofer.
DD Audio LE-DF-SL610 sub.
Going digital with MOST decoder
Ok this was not initial plan but feedback from Facebook BMW i3 Audio group got me thinking why not.
So normally i3 or i3s doesn't use MOST bus (Media Oriented System Transfer) but head unit has that capability as same one is used in many other BMW's. 3-series and bigger models use MOST as transferring digital audio signal to amplifier and that audio option is Top HiFi (S677 / S688). BMW i3 Harman Kardon S674 is not Top HiFi and is similar to HiFi 676 option so signal from HU is analog.
From MOST bus signal needs to be decoded and there are few options like:
https://www.audiokit.fi/tuote/most-x-bmw-audio-dekooderi
https://www.audiokit.fi/tuote/audison-bit-dmi-most-adapteri
First one is our choice as we have been part of it's development with manufacturer. Quality and properties like in/out connections are more versatile and quality very good with aluminium chassis. It is specially made for BMW's and volumes (dB) of media and PDC/gong can be easily adjusted with dip switches.
Other parts needed are MOST fiber optic and S/PDIF Toslink cables.
Next step is coding that can be done with Bimmercode for example. Enter Head Unit and go to Expert mode to change these parameters.
Then check that red light behind head unit comes alive.
When coding to Top HiFi you will also get new sound menu with working equalizer to iDrive. There is also surround option but that doesn't work as it is hardware thing in stock amp.
Next step was to install MOST decoder and perfect spot was right behind head unit. Decoder needs power and ground and those were taken from Match power connector as it is internally in same circuit as power and ground going via Molex connector. Blue remote cable was also put in place to same connector as decoder wakes up from MOST signal and then gives remote to amp, but most likely it wasn't necessary as OE head unit also gives remote through Match harness.
NOTE: With newer Match amps like UP 8DSP power connector and Molex are not in same circuit as standard and there are instructions how to use one or another. BUT it is possible to use both when adding 25A mini LP fuse to Molex side and leave two fuses in place that are for power connector.
And lastly just plug MOST connector from head unit to decoder and Toslink cable from decoder to amp.
Now signal to amp is digital and of course amp setting need to be changed so that digital is priority. And new sound tune should be also made. Problem with analog signal with Match DSP amps has always been in NBT head units that signal level is quite low and volume needs to be almost maxed out to get everything out. If input gain is put to lower voltage or main dB boosted, there will be hissing background noise. With digital MOST signal there is no background noise as signal is just ones and zeroes. Volume level from iDrive is also much more aggressive so about 50% is max you can go, but that can be balanced to own liking putting master volume to second knob of URC.3 remote.
There is one negative thing about these MOST decoders. As only stereo (LEFT+RIGHT) signal is decoded then Fader doesn't work. So rear speakers volume need to be adjusted "fixed" from amps software. But wit newer amps like UP 8DSP rears can be "marked" as Rear Fill and second knob of remote can be dedicated to control those level. Then not possible to adjust master volume but it is really ok as it is. Just make sure that nobody cranks volume all the way up, or adjust master volume from amps software fixed.
But most importantly overall sound is much more dynamic with zero background noises!
Final frequency response using pink noise and front speakers equalization.
If you are interested about upgrading your i3 Base Audio or Harman Kardon please send me email to get suggestion and quote - > info@audiokit.fi
- Kimmo / Audiokit
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